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Resin Kits & Resin Modelling

These techniques are of equal value for scratchbuilding and kit construction, and are recommended for the use of adult scale modellers only.

This section includes:
Introduction | Tools | Adhesives | Techniques - Hints & Tips |

Introduction

It should be noted that all adhesives and fillers used in resin modelling may be harmful if inhaled or ingested. Always use in a well ventilated room and never inhale the adhesive vapour. Replace the lid/cap when not in use. Super glues bond skin instantly! Wash well any spills in contact with the skin. Always follow the COSH directions on the bottle/packet.

Resins are becomming more popular in commercial kit manufacture as they offer a cheaper alternative to whitemetal in terms of both material and moulding costs. In the early use of resins they proved unstable, very brittle and difficult to join together and to other mediums. Painting was also a problem as some resins were prone the leaking. After many years of technical development and industrial use their chemical behaviour has become controlled and they are now a viable alternative to other materials.

Tools.

Only simple inexpensive tools are required for model making and kit construction in resin. These tools can be purchased from our Tools and Materials Internet Web Shop. See the Shopping Index on the right side of this page or CLICK HERE

Knife - The best modelling knives are surgical scalpels. They are extremely strong and can be purchased in a variety of styles with various blade types. X-Acto and other specific modelling knives are popular together with the basic but effective Swann Morton Craft Tool. The most important fact is that the knife is comfortable to use and strong. Remember to always wear safety glasses when using sharp instruments, and to cut away from you. All craft and surgical knives are extremely sharp!
Straight Edge - A simple but essential tool to ensure clean straight lines are cut in a controlled manner. When using any form of model/craft knife, always use a steel straight edge to prevent the blade cutting into the straight edge. A variety of sizes are useful from 15cm to 100cm depending on the work. Safety straight edges are an advantage as the 'holding' fingers are protected from the blade.
Cutting Mat - A recent innovation available in a varity of sizes from A5 to A3, the 'self healing' surface provides a good flat surface for cutting without damage to the blade. Generally a good addition to any tool box.
Retaining Tools - Basically anything that holds the items in place whilst the adhesive sets. Useful items include elastic bands, bulldog clips etc. Masking tape or similar can be useful to hold the model while it sets or as a temporary fix when checking. Sanding Products - Resins sand relatively easily and a variety of sanding products help to improve the finish on models. Standard wet and dry papers are useful together with sanding sticks (used to file finger nails) which are abrasive boards similar to 'lolly' sticks. The Flexi-File is an essential requirement when constructing kits with circular/oval structures eg aircraft fuselage or locomotive boilers. This special file wraps around the shape reducing the potential to file a flat spot.
Model Filler - Milliput is probably the most useful filler for use on resin kits. Supplied as a two part epoxy putty mixed equally as epoxy resin adhesive, milliput offers a filler that can be shaped and moulded as required. Always try and reach as near to the actual finish as possible before the Milliput cures as it becomes as hard as stone!
Drills - These include pin vice and small modellers electric drill (Expo or Minicraft) together with an assortment of drill tools.

Adhesives.

It should be noted that all adhesives and fillers used in resin modelling may be harmful if inhaled or ingested. Always use in a well ventilated room and never inhale the adhesive vapour. Replace the lid/cap when not in use. Super glues bond skin instantly! Wash well any spills in contact with the skin. Always follow the COSH directions on the bottle/packet.

Two adhesives are generally required as follows:

Epoxy Resin - Supplied as a two part adhesive; the resin and hardener, the adhesive does not become active until equal amounts are mixed together to form a thick viscous adhesive. In small quantities it is sold in tubes or syringes, in larger quantities in metal tins. Trade names include Araldite, Devcon, Humbrol Super Fast Epoxy and Perma Bond. Care should be taken in selecting the right epoxy for the job based upon curing times. For most modelling purposes, a five minute curing time offers rapid construction whilst allowing small adjustments. On large areas that can be held in position epoxy resins that cure in tweleve to twenty four hours offer a tremendously strong bond. Epoxy resin offers the facility to join larger resin parts to sheet brass.
Super Glue - Useful in most modelling situations super glue can be used on most resin kits to obtain a fast strong bond between resin components; and to add detailing parts manufactured from other materials. Recommended types include 'Bond it' available in our tools/materials section

Techniques - Hints & Tips.

This section hopes to give modellers a few basic tips to aid in the construction of resin models both kits and scratchbuilt. Some hints and tips occur in the tools section above.

Where using epoxy resin try and trim any excess adhesive prior to curing as it becomes as hard if not harder than the resin kit. Just before the glue sets it can be trimmed with a knife.

When cutting parts from a sprue use side cutters rather than a knife where possible. Once removed sand the 'pip' until it blends into the model.

When cleaning mould edges on parts, try and sand on a flat surface with the abrasive upwards to ensure neat edges.

Use a craft knife with the blade perpendicular to the subject to scrape edges preventing damage to the model.

Small windows can be made using clear drying high quality PVA adhesive. Simply place the PVA into the window frame allowing a thin film to cover the window. This will dry clear like glass.

Air bubble holes in some lower grade resin parts can be filled using fast setting epoxy resin. Clean before the full cure is achieved and then sand to the required profile.

When using super glue never apply the glue direct to the part. Always place the glue onto a waste piece and apply with a small tool to avoid excessive amounts covering the kit.

When building box structures from resin parts, always make a ventilation hole to allow the adhesive gas to escape. Failure to do so may result in distortion to the model.