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Modelling In Wood
These techniques are of equal value for scratchbuilding and kit construction, and are recommended for the use of adult scale modellers only.
This section includes:
Introduction | Tools | Adhesives | Techniques - Hints & Tips |
Introduction
It should be noted that some adhesives and fillers used in wood modelling may be harmful if inhaled or ingested. Always use in a well ventilated room and never inhale the adhesive vapour. Replace the lid/cap when not in use. Super glues bond skin instantly! Wash well any spills in contact with the skin. Always follow the COSH directions on the bottle/packet.
Wood is probably the oldest material for model making. With a tremendous variety of hardness, weight and strength it can be used in many applications.
Tools.
Wood kits require in effect small joinery tools often found in tool boxes. These tools can be purchased from our Tools and Materials Internet Web Shop. See the Shopping Index on the right side of this page or CLICK HERE
Knife - The best modelling knives are surgical scalpels.
They are extremely strong and can be purchased in a variety of styles with
various blade types. X-Acto and other specific modelling knives are
popular together with the basic but effective Swann Morton Craft Tool.
The most important fact is that the knife is comfortable to use and strong.
Remember to always wear safety glasses when using sharp instruments,
and to cut away from you. All craft and surgical knives are extremely
sharp!
Straight Edge - A simple but essential tool to ensure clean straight lines are
cut in a controlled manner. When using any form of model/craft knife, always use a steel
straight edge to prevent the blade cutting into the straight edge. A variety of sizes are
useful from 15cm to 100cm depending on the work. Safety straight edges are an advantage
as the 'holding' fingers are protected from the blade.
Cutting Mat - A recent innovation available in a varity of sizes from A5 to A3, the
'self healing' surface provides a good flat surface for cutting without damage to the blade.
Generally a good addition to any tool box.
Retaining Tools - Basically anything that holds the items in place whilst the adhesive sets. Useful items include elastic bands, bulldog clips etc. Masking tape
or similar can be useful to hold the model while it sets or as a temporary fix when checking.
Sanding Products - Timber products sand relatively easily and a variety of sanding products
help to improve the finish on models. Standard sand paper and wet and dry papers are useful together
with sanding sticks (used to file finger nails) which are abrasive boards similar to
'lolly' sticks. The Flexi-File is an essential requirement when constructing kits with
circular/oval structures eg aircraft fuselage or locomotive boilers. This special file
wraps around the shape reducing the potential to file a flat spot.
Model Filler - Milliput is probably the most useful filler for use on resin kits.
Supplied as a two part epoxy putty mixed equally as epoxy resin adhesive, milliput offers
a filler that can be shaped and moulded as required. Always try and reach as near to
the actual finish as possible before the Milliput cures as it becomes as hard as stone!
Drills - These include pin vice and small modellers electric drill (Expo or Minicraft) together
with an assortment of drill tools.
Saws - Where the material is too thick or hard to cut with a knife, a variety of saws will prove essential. Razor saws are generally all that is required, these are similar to a small Tennon Saw.
Mitre Box - Use with a razor saw to achieve neat vertcal square cuts.
Adhesives.
It should be noted that some adhesives and fillers used in wood modelling may be harmful if inhaled or ingested. Always use in a well ventilated room and never inhale the adhesive vapour. Replace the lid/cap when not in use. Super glues bond skin instantly! Wash well any spills in contact with the skin. Always follow the COSH directions on the bottle/packet.
Many types of wood adhesives are available as follows:
'All Purpose Adhesives'- These adhesives include Bostick and UHU. They are designed
for use on most materials but are quick setting when used on thin wood veneers. Generally
clear and relatively thick they are most suited to sticking thin surfaces together as
a strong rapid bond is formed. They are however a little thick in consistency and expensive
for use on large surface areas.
Balsa Cement - As its name suggests this adhesive is specially formulated for use on Balsa wood.
It provides a rapid stong bond with a little more curing time than super glue. Both PVA and super
glue are popular with modellers using balsa.
PVA or similar - Probably the most useful model making adhesive available. When used
sparingly PVA is a very good adhesive on wood forming a quick strong bond. It is ideal
for covering large areas as it is inexpensive and very little is required. Any excess
can be cleaned using a damp cloth while the adhesive is wet. It is best used as a 'neat'
adhesive although dilution with water is possible. Some commercial makes are more dilute
than others. Always purchase a thick smooth flowing PVA that dries clear.
Evo Stick - A trade name used to describe contact adhesives. Extremely powerful
adhesives that are made for industrial use by coating the two surfaces and allowing
to dry. Once the two surfaces meet, it is almost impossible to separate them! This glue
has a strong vapour and should not be used by children!
Super Glue
- A recent essential addition to the modellers tool box. Super glue
has its uses with most modelling materials and therefore has a place in wood modelling.
Super glue is ideal where holding the subject may be difficult and a rapid bond is required.
It is also useful for adding detail to wood models. Do not purchase an expensive super
glue as it is not necessary. The 'Bond It' range is recommended from our tools/materials internet shop.
Techniques - Hints & Tips.
This section hopes to give modellers a few basic tips to aid in the construction of wood models, both kits and scratchbuilt. Some hints and tips occur in the tools section above.
When pinning wood, blunt the pin to prevent splitting.
Always try and cut across the grain rather than with the grain.
Use a craft knife with the blade perpendicular to the subject to scrape edges preventing damage to the model.
A simple filler can be made by mixing saw dust with PVA adhesive.
When using thin planks, remember these can be made more flexible by soaking in water.